This article outlines my recommendations for walks and hikes in Granada, from easy to (very) challenging.
Walks from beach to beach
The southeast coast of the island is best suited for this, particularly the area between Hope and Wisdom. The hills are usually between 80 and 200 feet high, so when you get tired of walking, you are already at the top. You’ll enjoy ever-changing landscapes, from shimmering hills, reminiscent of Ireland’s Kerry coast, to mangrove swamps. And -of course- beaches, one every 20 minutes on average. Since the sun shines on the trails, it’s fine to walk even after a shower. Since you are exposed to the sun, take at least 2 liters/½ gallon of water (preferably frozen) on ½ day trips and twice as much on full day trips.
The following short walks are suitable if your condition is not that great, or you want to get started before attempting a bigger challenge: Paradise Bay (La Tante) to Marlmount Beach or Paradise Bay to Cabier Beach (Crochu). Both return trips take approximately 1.5 hours, not counting lunch and swim breaks (recommended). When I join guests on these trips, we are usually 3-4 hours away.
A longer walk from beach to beach is to go from Paradise Bay to Hope Beach or Mt Carmel Falls (or vice versa). This will take about 3 hours + breaks to Hope Beach and 4.5 hours to Mt Carmel Falls (via Hope Beach, last part goes up and more strenuous). If you are staying in Paradise Bay, they have a service to pick you up at Hope Beach and take you to a point 10 minutes from the Falls. Including breaks, you must reserve the day for this trip. From Hope Beach and Mt Carmel Falls you can take a bus back.
The longest walk from beach to beach is from Paradise Bay to La Sagesse (or vice versa) and takes around 5 hours. Although there are some climbing parts, I still wouldn’t class this as a hike. Anyone with a reasonable condition can do it. But if in doubt, consider doing the shorter walks first. This walk allows you to enjoy many different landscapes and beaches. Including breaks, I recommend leaving after breakfast (early) and with ample breaks getting to happy hour. You can take the bus back, after walking back to the main road to the East.
When you come by car, you can park your car at Paradise Bay Resort, La Sagesse Nature Center, Cabier Ocean Lodge (4×4 recommended), and Hope Beach. When coming by bus to Paradise Bay, ask the driver to drop you off at La Tante Junction on Eastern Main Road and walk to the beach (20 minutes). Paradise Bay, Cabier Beach and La Sagesse have a restaurant and bar. At the beginning of the access road to Mt Carmel Falls there are 2 local bars.
rainforest walks
As part of its Super Inclusive program, Paradise Bay Resort offers a rainforest hike that begins high in the mountains at a water reservoir. This is the closest you can get to a rainforest (10 minute walk). You can then walk as far as you like. The further you go into the rainforest, the muddier it becomes (that’s why they are called RAIN forests…) but also more beautiful. When you are lucky (in season) you will see hundreds of orchids growing at the base of the trees, in addition to the ferns and mosses that are always there.
Another rainforest hike that’s doable for most, and requires no guide, is the Grand Etang Crater Lake Loop Walk in the center of the island between St George’s and Grenville (accessible by bus). From the lake you go up and follow the indications. It takes about 1.5 hours + breaks. This trip may not offer the same experience as the previous one, as it is located on the outskirts of the rainforest, but it is an enjoyable experience nonetheless. Near the Grand Etang visitor center there is a parking lot where Mona monkeys are often seen. The neighboring shop sells bananas…
A little more strenuous is the hike to Seven Sisters Falls. Between Grand Etang and Grenville, take the side road signposted St Margaret. If you come park in the designated area and walk from there. When you get on the bus, walk down the side street for about ½ mile; then take the first path on the left that goes into the forest. After about 200 feet (60 meters), the trail makes a 90-degree turn to the right. If you don’t see the right turn, you’d better back up… You’ll see the first two of the seven sisters, one of whom is over 50 feet (15 meters) tall. If you’d like to see the other five, see below: “Jump the Seven Sisters; The Ultimate Hike.” As with the previous trek, this is not a 100% rainforest experience. It takes me about 2 hours + breaks (hot shower and swimming in the falls recommended).
rainforest walks
From Paradise Bay’s “secret” starting point at the water tower high in the mountains (secret due to difficult access and narrow paths – getting through is a challenge) it’s a great rainforest experience, ending in Grand Etang. Your guide will cut down the jungle bush with his machete in the central part of the walk. After about 3 hours, you will end up near the Grand Etang Crater Lake. You might consider combining this trip with the Seven Sisters hike described above. The guide arranges transportation back to Paradise Bay Resort and other hotels.
The next intermediate rainforest hike is from Apres Tout (not far from La Tante) to Grand Etang. You need a guide to avoid getting lost. This tour begins by walking through farms and plantations with a good chance to see the local spices that gave Granada the name “Spice Island”. You will enjoy excellent views over the east coast. After passing Mt. Williams, the trip ends at Grand Etang and takes approximately 3 hours + breaks, leaving plenty of time for other activities.
Mt Qua Qua is the highest peak (2,370 feet / 710 meters) that can be easily reached from Grand Etang (1,800 feet / 540 meters). This is a popular and well maintained trail and there is no real need for a guide if you have hiking experience. After covered trails, continue up a ridge that goes almost directly to the top, where you enjoy sweeping views of parts of the west, east, and north coasts. Combining this trip with the Seven Sisters hike is also a popular option.
When you’re an expert hiker and super fit, the “ultimate hike” is “Jump Seven Sisters Falls.” It starts with the Seven Sisters hike and that’s the easy part. You absolutely need a guide for this one as he will show you how to climb and where to jump. First, he walks up to the Seventh Sister, which is challenging with 45° and steeper climbs. However, as there is enough vegetation to support it, it is not extremely difficult. If you experience this escalation to the edge of your abilities, I highly recommend you come back (take your time). Your guide will understand and guide you on the way back.
At the top, you first practice a bit of cliff hanging, albeit on average 10 feet above the water. There is no vegetation to grab onto, just rocks. At the beginning there are bigger pieces sticking out which makes it easier, but the last part is very technical and requires extreme caution. Thereafter, the first jumps are not high, but the water is shallow. I’ve found that jumping with your legs stretched out horizontally is a good recipe for these jumps.
The most challenging part is where the water drops between 30° and 45° in a narrow gorge (about 2 feet wide). Our local guide seemed to have a good grip on the slippery rocks with his bare feet and walked with a smile. My hiking shoes had no grip so my only option was to maneuver my feet against the rocks to a safe position. I then moved my hands to a lower position, bending at the knees, thus gaining about 1-2 feet. Then move your feet one by one to a stable position. This is very technical and requires applying a lot of force for more than half an hour.
After that, you casually wander down the river to the last jump. Before doing this hike, I personally verified that the water below this 50-foot (15-meter) waterfall was as deep as they say. And so it was, I never hit the bottom during my 30-minute evaluation, so it must be at least 30 feet (6 meters) deep, which is safe.
When I looked at the Cascade from a horizontal distance, it seemed pretty easy to do. When you’re at the top looking down, there’s a very clear difference. The lake in the background suddenly seemed so small… After working up enough courage, I first dropped down about 4 feet (not steep) to get to a jumping position immediately above the water. This is supposed to be easy, but so high it’s a little scary. With trembling knees I took the jump and -indeed- did not touch the bottom of the lake. Everybody feels great after this. “I did it”. I did this last trek once as I must have first hand experience on all the tours I organize, but I would like to confess that I booked this trek under the “once in a lifetime experiences” category. I’m not sure if I should recommend this to guests in my age category (57). Or rather, I should only recommend it to young, very fit and experienced hikers. To my knowledge, there are no known serious casualties from walking the Seven Sisters. Guests who hiked the falls called this one of the most exciting experiences they’ve ever had. I agree, bungy jumping is a doddle compared to Ultimate Hike.
Did I give up some walks and walks? There are certainly many more in Granada: lots of casual hikes and also quite a few rainforest and waterfall hikes. However, most visitors to Granada have limited vacation time, so I plan to select the best. If you want to do them all, you will need at least 2 weeks, that is if you want to enjoy other great activities like ocean kayaking, catamaran sailing, whale and dolphin watching, scuba diving and snorkeling, horseback riding and turtle watching. (overnight; March – July). The best way to enjoy the beaches is to take walks from beach to beach. Bring your snorkel gear!